HDMI Switcher 2×1 Multiviewer With PIP and POP
HDMI Switcher 2×1 Multiviewer supports four types of operation modes including PIP (picture in picture), POP (picture on picture) and 16:9 POP. Built-in scaling up and down functions to support 1080p,720p,1080i,1024×768,1360×768 output resolutions. “With Gaming In Mind”
I picked up a 46″ 1080p TV for general gaming. I have my Xbox One X and my Raspberry Pi 3B plugged into the TV. One thing I do a lot is watching Netflix or Youtube when playing games. I do have another monitor by the TV but having it in one screen is better for me. So doing some digging online trying to find a good switcher that can do PIP (Picture in Picture) and POP (Picture on Picture). With these settings, their hard to find for a good price and the main problem is, the lack of information about them is extremely annoying.
Sure there’s TV’s out there that can do these settings but not all TV’s have it. The best option is to find a switcher that can do this. You can find switchers that are $700 CAN to $2000 CAN +.
Some have the most crappy software, slow response times and have a slow latency response time. I was looking for one that was around $160 and I found this one. Problem was, it has a lack of info on it too. One YouTube video and a couple of comments on Amazon. The one view wasn’t that great but it was enough information I needed to get this thing. I’m glad I did! This one deserves a blog page about it!
My Video Review
Items It Comes With
Things I Like and dislike about it.
- The Speed from switching to different modes and source switching.
It’s pretty quick.
- The options you get.
1. Source switches from one HDMI to the other HDMI without blacking out.
2. Mode gives you 4 types of options.
Sadly mode is slow to switch and one of the settings is actually useless.
A: Stretched vertical mode is the useless mode. The only real good thing I can see this mode used for is on a PC that can run in Portrait mode resolution with a dual-screened purpose. That will make it look great and not look stretched. Perhaps, that’s what the option is for.
B: The mode that I wanted most is the side by side horizontal mode.
The problem with this mode the quality is degraded a bit. Still worth it for videos and gaming.
C: PIP is one of the best modes and the quality to it is great. You have 3 settings to change the size and 4 positions from corner to corner. No complaints with it one bit.
D: Mode Source is the typical setting all normal HDMI switchers do. Nothing to really tell you besides switching from one HDMI to the other is quick.
3. Resolution is one button I’m sure you will rarely play around with as you probably will have it on 1080P
- This does create a lot of heat!
It gets quite warm underneath on the left side. The source of the heat on that side is coming from transistors and the heatsink that cannot let that heat out of the case. Please Read Below Under Heating Issue.
- Made out of metal. Build quality is actually good.
However, I highly recommend getting some rubber feet for it as the two Philips screws can scratch your surface top.
I haven’t noticed any latency problems or screen tearing.
Not all TV’s or monitors will have this problem. On my TV I can see a bit of ghosting when you have text or a mouse cursor moving. It’s not bad but noticeable if you’re really looking for it.
I have checked to see if this is a problem with another TV and my 27″ Samsung Monitor and I couldn’t see it happen.
- Visual Quality Contrast
When playing games from my Xbox One X, games like Skyrim is one that has a lot of dark parts that sometimes needs some changes done to your TV to brighten up the hard to see parts. Now I have noticed that there is a big difference in contrast when playing this game on the HDMI switcher vs direct input to the TV. On my Xbox in the Settings / Display & Sound / Video output / Advanced / Video fidelity & overscan / Colour space is set to “PC RGB” This setting tweaks the contrast and not all devices support this like the HDMI Switcher. This is the reason for the dark parts. I also checked my Raspberry Pi for contrast issues and I saw none. So that’s just a heads up if you use that option on your TV. It’s not supported on the HDMI Switcher.
When you buy this device and notice it’s getting quite warm just know that it’s safe. The Power Transistors use the Metal casing as a heatsink. Not a very great heatsink but better than nothing.
If this was my product I would’ve made the case out of aluminum or added some vents with a larger heatsink that can dissipate heat from all the transistors and microchips.
Below I have some temperature readings on this device verse the max heat temps.
- Normal Microchip Operating Temperature
Microchip’s high-temperature technology spans all product families including microcontrollers, analog, and memory. Reliability testing is performed to AEC-Q100 Grade 0 (150°C) and specified for operation up to 150°C ambient.
- Microchip Operating Temperature in HDMI Switcher
50C with the cover off / 65C with the cover on
- Normal Power Transistors Operating Temperature
Typical maximum temperature is between 100°C and 150°C, although some devices can withstand higher maximum junction temperatures.
- Power Transistors Operating Temperature in HDMI Switcher
60C with the cover off / 75C to 80C with the cover on
- The Power Adapter on HDMI Switcher
The temperature gets to around 40C
Voltage & Amps
- Power Adaptor Rated Voltage & Amps
5V DC 2A
- HDMI Switcher Voltage & Amp Draw
4.7v DC 1.3A to 4.8DC 1A on load.
Voltage and Amp readings depend on the motion and settings chosen to display on matrix.
The Thing That May Make or Break You Into Buying One
The only things that I find that are negatives about this device.
The case temperature will get around 40C. That’s quite warm, however, that temperature is still safe for operation as the maximum temperatures are beyond that. As I said, I would’ve liked for the designers to vent that off. The heat is trapped.
- Does Not Have Rubber Feat
This device could scratch the surface it sits on as the screw heads can be sharp.
- Visual Quality Contrast
As I mentioned the issue I see on the Xbox may not be a problem on other devices but be aware as you may need to adjust it on your TV.
- Compliant with HDMI 1.3a, HDCP 1.2
- Supports multiplexed HDMI 2-input and 1-output and 4 display modes.
- Supports up to 1080p High Definition resolution.
- Support scaler up, scaler down function.
- Support multi-output resolution.
- Support digital audio format LPCM/AC3/DTS
- HDMI 2×1 Multi-Viewer
- 5V 1A DC Power adapter
- Remote control
- Operation Manual
- Video Bandwidth – 225MHz [6.75Gbps]
- Input Ports – 2 x HDMI (Female type)
- Output Ports – 1 xHDMI (Female type)
- Audio output – PCM2, 5.1, 7.1CH, Dolby 5.1, DTS5.1
- Input Resolution – 480i60Hz, 480p60Hz, 576i50Hz, 576p50Hz, 720p50/60Hz, 1080i50/60Hz, 1080p24/30/50/60Hz, 800×[email protected], 1024×[email protected], 1280×[email protected], 1920×[email protected];
- Output Resolution – 1080p, 720p, 1080i, 1024×768, 1360×768
- ESD Protection – Human Body model: +8 kV (air-gap discharge) +4 kV (contact discharge)
- Power Supply – 5V/1A DC (US/EU standards, CE/FCC/UL certified)
- Dimensions – 70 mm (W)x140mm (D)x25mm (H)
- Weight – 300g
- Chassis Material – Metal
- Silkscreen Color – Black
- Operating Temperature -20C ~40C / 32F~104F
- Storage Temperature -20C~60C / 4F~140F
- Relative Humidity – 20~90% RH (non-condensing)
- Power Consumption (Max) 10W
- POWER LED: This red LED illuminates when the device is connected with power supply.
- OUTPUT LED: This red LED illuminates when the TV is plugged in corresponding with HDMI output port.
- IN1 LED: This red LED illuminates when the HDMI IN1 is selected as the main image.
- IN2 LED: This red LED illuminates when the HDMI IN2 is selected as the main image.
- IR: Remote control signal receives.
- SOURCE: Press the button to select the input source as the main image, and the LED will indicate the corresponding input source.
- MODE: Press the button to select display mode [X] See the description 1.
- POSITION: Press the button to select the position of sub-image when in PIP mode.
- SIZE: Press the button to select the size of sub-image when in PIP mode.
- RESOLUTION: Press the button to select the output resolution.
|1||1080P, Main image audio|
|2||720P, Main image audio|
|3||1080I, Main image audio|
|4||1024×768, Min image audio|
|5||1360×768, Main image audio|
- RS232: Connected to computer via RS232 tool, and controlled via host-computer software.
- HDMI IN2: This slot is where you connect the HDMI source output from DVD, PC, Xbox 360, PS3, PS4, Xbox One and so on.
- HDMI IN1: This slot is where you connect the HDMI source output from DVD, PC, Xbox 360, PS3, PS4, Xbox One and so on.
- HDMI OUTPUT: This slot is where you connect the HDTV or monitor with HDMI cable.
- DC 5V IN: Plug the 5v DC power supply into the unit.
[X] Description 1 Mode Introduction.
- Mode 1: One-view mode
- Mode 2: PIP mode
- Mode 3: POP mode A
- Mode 4: POP mode B
- POWER: Press this button to power on the matrix or set it to standby mode.
- IN1: Press this button to select input 1 as the main image, and the IN1 LED will indicate.
- IN 2: Press this button to select input 2 as the main image, and the IN1 LED will indicate.
- SIZE: Press the button to select the size of sub-image when in PIP mode.
- POSITION: Press these buttons to select the position of sub-image when in PIP mode.
- MODE: Press the button to select display mode.
- RESO: Press the button to select the output resolution.
I do know that when temperatures are high, things attend to not last as long. Although it’s operating in a mid-range of the chips and transistors, I’m still concerned and I have already started on fixing that problem.
I did want to try and take off the heatsink and add a dual-fan heatsink to this but unfortunately, they are using some sort of permanent epoxy I can’t get it off with rubbing alcohol, dental floss, fishing line and have tried to slightly use a heat gun and sculpting blade. Again unsuccessful and I really don’t want to scrape or chip the microchip so I stopped and gave up.
Adding these other heatsinks have actually helped the other chips and including the transistors to drop there temperatures to 20 degrees less.
I will be cutting some exhaust vents into the top cover to let all that heat out and maybe changing the copper heatsinks. I just used what I had on me from my raspberry pi extra parts I had laying around.
I recommend watching the video as it shows the vent modifications and the LED mod.
Well, that’s it for this review and modification. It runs great, it’s not hot anymore because it’s got extra heatsinks and better ventilation. This is something that should’ve been done, to begin with.
Anyways. If you have any questions. Don’t be afraid to ask.